I think everything depends on the site, that is the only variable. Wet ,dry,sunny,shaded,elevated,low? you get it.
Now take control of the variable to eliminate trouble down the road. The way to do that is to make the site higher if needed to drain storm water,get down below any frost,IMO the most effective way is a 4-6 foot frost wall and a perimeter drainage of stone and pipe and fabric.
Now the rest of the methods are shortcuts to avoid this expense.They may or may not work in your area. Believe me
I have tried them all with varying success,depending on the site.Seems like, if it works for one guy it is the greatest thing since sliced bread. The next guys site isn't quite drained the same and one year the frost shoves one of his posts through the roof. Now the repair costs more than the frost wall. Pour a wall four feet below grade and at least
18" above grade with anchor bolts every 3-4 ' and build yourself some thing that will appreciate in value and not need maintenece for a long time. The concensus around here is the new PT will last about half as long as the old formula.Notice this chart stops at 14 yrs. the new formular drops like a rock in the 15th yr. Not sure if it is the same product you are dealing with? But I think it was a fed EPA rule?
Like Murf said some dry rough sawn is as good as anything
as long as it is uniform.
mix some used motor oil 50/50 with k-1, run it through a cheese cloth and treat the lumber in contact with the cement
and within 2' of the ground and forget the PT.
Murf, I think they came up with it when outside decks
came on the scene. I will keep my concrete patio any day.

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